Thank you for those who have followed the blog. I hope my blog has opened your eyes a little. There is so much I haven’t covered, but I do believe you get the idea of what I experienced. If you have further questions, please do not hesitate to let me know. I may not have the answer, but I should be able to direct you in the correct direction.

I would also like to thank my new chomies (friends). They have been amazing as we all have processed and reacted to the trip differently. It is great to have such a strong support system and I know we will remain in contact for many years to come.

Free State Chomies

Leon, I would like to thank you for your confidence that I would make a strong candidate for the Study Tour. I look forward to working with you and the Idaho Council in the future.

~Crystal Ayers

Thank you!

Throughout the trip, I was also able to see giraffes (these were at one of the hotels where I stayed), baboons, crocodiles, and zebras. It was with great joy being able to see these creatures away from a zoo. It gives me a greater appreciation to the wild. I do want to note that wild animals are not just roaming the streets. Listening to some locals talk, it appears that many visitors expect to see zebras and rhinos around every corner. 

While in Bethlehem, we watched a presentation from the South Africa Grain Emerging Farmers Project. Our speaker, Mr. Johan Kriel, is an amazing man who works so hard to offer training for people (mostly blacks) who want to farm. He shares his biggest obstacles as trying to find land for people who want to farm. Typically what has happened is that the government has given land to people (primarily the whites) and the people aren’t using the land to farm. One would think that an easy solution would be to let those who want to farm to use the land. However, this is not the case. It takes many months to acquire land as most blacks do not have ‘property’ and are unable to receive any loans—the property is an another story, but I imagine you can figure out why. It has been an uphill battle, yet has been successful. The emerging farmers are addressing the problems of unsustainable farming practices and land degradation. These constraints are resulting in poor quality cattle and limited returns available to communities from the commercial beef market. Mr. Kriel has been a great asset to the black farmers and is very passionate about his work. I wish him and his farmers the best of luck as they continue to pursue their dreams.

Our final days were spent in Durban. It was amazing to be along the Indian Ocean. The first morning a group of us went swimming. It is amazing to say that I have been swimming in the Indian Ocean. The water was warmer and saltier than expected. I knew that the Indian Ocean is the saltiest ocean, but it didn’t sink in until the waves hit me.

Durban

While in Durban, we went to Isithumba Zulu Village. Here we saw a part of the Zulu culture. We had a performance that explained the courting rituals of the Zulu. It is amazing the athleticism of the dancers as they performed their story.

Zulu Tribe

These were all important parts of the journey, but what really sticks in my memory is the time spent in the schools and townships.

The learners performing for us.

When we arrived, the students welcomed us with a song. As you can imagine, the students had no idea who we were or what we were doing. Many of the children had the look of confusion in their eyes, but warmed up to us quickly. After the singing, I went into a small classroom and sat down on the floor with the children. A couple of boys inched towards me and sat on my lap. We sang a song about months together and had a great time. This small time with these children moved me to tears (the tears came after I left, but they were running down the cheeks). These children are so precious and are dealing with so many obstacles at such a young age. Once again, I have taken so much for granted in my life. Thank goodness the Hospice is available for these children.

My two buddies

Our next adventure was through another informal settlement. I mentioned earlier about Soweto and how poor the conditions are there. Soweto looked wealthy compared to this particular area. Little kids are playing in trash heaps, parents are washing clothes in black water, residents do not have electricity or running water, and the outhouses are barely standing. I get upset when the roll of toilet paper doesn’t get replaced. I think my priorities are off base…at least I have a toilet and toilet paper. There is a place where people can get water, but they have to walk a distance to get it.

One striking picture in my memory is the ability to be standing in one spot and in front of me there is a house made of metal with trash piled up outside and not having any modern amenities. If I were to stand in the same place, but shift my body 90 degrees, right across the street is a nice middle class neighborhood. In this neighborhood you can see homes with actual windows and doors. The contrast is amazing. How can one street make such a division?

While cruising through the ‘middle-class’ section of town, we stopped at a local tavern. Due to the high rate of HIV/Aids, it is mandatory for taverns to provide free condoms to their patrons. As is customary in the States, the more alcohol consumed the more likely some extra curricular activities will occur. I saw several of these ‘dispensers’ around our travels (not just in taverns) and I never saw a single condom available. It makes me wonder how frequent the dispensers are being refilled and therefore, if the program is working.

Our last stop was a GET school for grades R-4. The students of this school are from the informal settlement we just toured. Chances are several of the students are infected with HIV/Aids or other incurable diseases and have little chance of breaking out of the poverty cycle. The entire school gathered in the courtyard and sang “God Bless You.”  I want to stress that these are the same kids that are living in the informal settlement and they are singing this amazing song to us. I feel as if we should be singing to them. The icing on the cake was when we were leaving and these precious children were chasing the bus and waving good-bye to us. What an amazing picture and honor…once again, the tear ducts opened.

What a way to be welcomed to a school!

In the classroom, the walls were bare with only two or three simple items. The class size was 36 (which is a smaller class size than most). The students were grouped by six and were participating in an economic lesson focusing on productivity. The students were to produce books and create a logo and company name. The group I observed created the company name of “Future of Hope.” This too brought tears to my eyes. These learners want so much out of life and I hope their future does bring hope. When the lesson was over, I kept a copy of one of the books they created and had them sign their names. I will treasure it for many years to come.

Future of Hope...I hope this happens

As a group, we talked to the teachers of the school. The teachers were very frustrated with the overcrowding and lack of support from the government. Does this sound familiar? I know the complaints are at different levels, but they are still similar. One teacher even said (privately) that he preferred teaching during the Apartheid for it was at least consistent. I asked the teachers about technology and I received mixed messages. The school has a computer lab, but I don’t think it is used too often…mainly for lack of knowledge on the teachers’ part. I asked if they train themselves or if they participate in workshops. Remember that South Africa has a very centralized educational structure. Due to this, the Department of Education identifies the needs the teachers have and then provide necessary workshops. These workshops are only offered on holiday or after school hours. Unlike the United States, teachers do not receive professional leave in order to improve their teaching. So many challenges…parents not home, lack of food at home, etc.

As we were leaving the school, the learners wanted our autographs. When was the last time a learner (student) asked for a teacher’s autograph? I am telling you, we were celebrities. I took so many pictures and after each picture showed the learners what it looked like. I am going to send the pictures to the school. I think they will appreciate seeing themselves with the Americans. I was truly mobbed when I was getting on the bus. For some reason, I don’t think I will receive the same treatment when I start school.

My fan club

The next school we attended was considered a middle class school. The first thing I noticed is that the learners had backpacks. The contrast from the previous school was night and day. The students were very excited to see us. We were greeted with a traditional song. I took a picture of a girl that reminded me of Kaitlynn. This little girl was full of energy, willing to ask questions, and just enjoyed life.

Full of Life

The lesson we observed was a shopping lesson. The students were given the task of doing the grocery shopping with 100 Rand (equivalent of about $13.33) and using current grocery advertisements. The students worked together in groups to determine the best use of their money. I was impressed with the thinking process and the outcome of the groups. I think one group was able to buy 14 items.

The final school we visited in the area was a wealthy school. This school even had a swimming pool. Granted the swimming pool was fenced in, but there was a pool. The classroom was full of color with many posters on the walls. It was such a contrast from our first school. I found it ironic that the lesson at this school was the Wealth Cycle vs. the Poverty Cycle. This school costs the learners about 3,000 Rand per year to attend. These fees include supplies, swimming pool, sports facilities, and the library. I even noticed that the principal had a laptop on his desk.

At least they have a pool

I am including a picture that I took from the outside of the middle class school. Each school has these fenced in grounds and are secured at night. Can you imagine going to school under these conditions? I remember when I was in grade school and there was commotion over a simple chain link fence.

What are your thoughts?

This is a day everyone should experience. We spent the day touring parts of Johannesburg with the majority being in the Township called Soweto (Southwest Town). In this township we saw the rich, the middle class, and the poor (or the good, bad, and the ugly). Let me tell you this is an eye opening experience.

The Rich…where Nelson Mandela currently lives–barbed wire around the top of fences, fancy cars, multiple story homes, and domestic help. This is a place where you could walk around and not have to worry about crime.

Two boys blowing kisses.

Now for the opposite side of Soweto—the poor.  We stopped and took a tour of an informal settlement where there is no running water, electricity, or indoor toilets. Kids were running around without shoes and jackets (keep in mind, it is winter in Africa). We were told not to give kids any money, but the kids were begging as soon as we got off the bus. It was a heartbreaking and humbling experience. We walked up the streets. The houses are essentially whatever material the family could scrounge up to make walls and a roof. Families of up to ten people lived in extremely tiny conditions. When I say tiny, I mean about the size my daughter’s bedroom. Most of the people who live here are unemployed and rely on tourists to ‘help’ them out (it was okay to give adults money, but not the children) as the government does not help. The kids attend school but have to walk 20-30 minutes to attend. It was hard not to feel guilty as my camera that I am using is worth more than everything a family owns. As I was leaving, a 3-year old blew me a kiss and whispered, “Can I have some money please?” It just tugged at my heart. Many students at Valley are poverty stricken, but nothing compared to this informal settlement.

Inside a 'home' of a family in Soweto

The main difference from poor and middle class is that the homes looked more permanent and people had cars in their fenced in yards. I would imagine that the majority of the homes would have electricity, indoor plumbing, and running water. The home size would be comparable to a two-car garage.

After this humbling experience, we went to Nelson Mandela’s home before he was imprisoned. This would be in a middle class neighborhood. We ate lunch in his neighborhood and had authentic South African food. I will admit that I tried intestine. I can’t say I am a fan, but I did try.

The last item for the day was touring the Apartheid Museum. I have a greater understanding of the tribulations that have faced South Africans. I still know very little and plan to do some reading upon my return. Something to think about…the South African constitution is based on these characteristics: Diversity, Responsibility, Democracy, Equality, Reconciliation, Respect, and Freedom.

We spent the day at Johannesburg University. At the campus we had presentations from Mr. Temba Tenza (Chief Director: Research and Development), Professor Lorraine Greyling (Head of Department Economics, University of Johannesburg), Mrs. Jenny Rault-Smith (Department of Education), Mr. Don Haripersad (Director of FET), and Dr. Lumengo Bonga-Bonga (Head of Department of Economics and Econometrics). From their presentations, we learned in more detail some challenges that South Africa has in Education. In essence, the entire educational system has been restructured over the course of ten years. Those of you in education know that it takes a great deal of time to restructure education effectively. Can you imagine trying to rebuild after the collapse of Apartheid in 1996?

As I mentioned in an earlier post, the curriculum needs to look the same regardless of where the school is located. So if a school is in the east and doesn’t have running water or plumbing, their curriculum is going to look the same as the schools in the city with modern amenities. Can you see some challenges here? The government and department of education is working very hard to get everything streamlined so that each child is educated the same. Questions that have been asked from education officials are: 1). Do we rebuild from scratch? and/or 2). Do we see what we can save and rebuild from this foundation? Either direction will affect the different areas separately. It has been extremely important to keep the big picture in mind and work with students to improve their education.

Go back to challenges beyond modern amenities and getting students to school. Overall, there is a low level of literacy in Africa—17% of the population has less than a seventh grade level of knowledge. If you recall, South Africa has many languages with 95% of the schools from fourth grade on being taught in English. Please keep in mind that only 8% of the learners are from English-speaking homes. What other challenges can you think may exist with these obstacles? On last tidbit of information…to print textbooks in color, it costs seven times as much as black and white. As you can see this is yet another obstacle for education.

I would like you to ponder what obstacles the United States is facing. How do these obstacles compare to the education in South Africa?

The opportunity to visit with these three individuals was amazing. It took me some time to feel comfortable talking to these individuals, but eventually worked into a comfortable flow of conversation. It is amazing how many people can work for one Senator in Washington, D.C. Apparently, Senator Risch has a small staff of twenty-five compared to many other Senators.

The Embassy was a great experience. It was a very hot and humid night, so it was difficult to be comfortable inside. We would have had the reception outside but it was raining pretty hard, so you can imagine the difficulty of having nearly 100 people crammed indoors without air conditioning. The Embassy had amazing artwork and décor. One individual said that some of the paintings were worth $1 million…can you imagine. We were served finger foods that are typical for South Africa. We had various meat appetizers, cucumbers with couscous, cheese, fruit, and much more. For drinks we were offered wine and beer from South Africa as well as water and soda. The atmosphere was amazing.

I was able to meet the Ambassador. He was a funny man with a great deal of pride for South Africa. He welcomed us to his country and wished us well in our travels. Again, I am in awe that I am involved with this opportunity.

Our flight took about 15-hours. Believe it or not, it didn’t seem like that long of a flight. The plane was set up so we had several choices for movies and sitcoms that we could choose from. It made the flight go much faster than normal. I was even able to sleep, which was very welcoming.

Upon our arrival to Johannesburg, we were immediately ‘welcomed’ by cold weather. I would say the temperature would be comparable to a fall evening back home. A little brisk, but not too bad–just a huge change from Washington, D.C.

At the hotel we ate at the hotel’s restaurant. It reminded me of a Southwest Restaurant in the States. We could choose from fajitas, hamburgers, fish, steaks, or just about anything similar to a  typical menu at home. It wasn’t exactly what I had expected, but it was enjoyable.

1. Foundation Phase (grades R-3)—R is similar to Kindergarten

2. Intermediate Phase (grades 4-6)

3. Senior Phase (grades 7-9)

Grades R-3 is taught in the students’ native tongue. Please keep in mind that there are eleven official languages. Starting in the Intermediate Phase, classes are taught in either English or Afrikaans. The teacher to student ratio at this strand is 1 teacher:40 students.

Economic and Management Sciences (EMS) is required throughout the entire GET phase of education. The components taught through EMS are economics, personal finance, Entrepreneurship, and Business studies. Students are given a national exam in grade 9 to help determine the route they will take during their FET years.

During grades 10-12 or FET, students choose their curriculum path. During this time, EMS is not required, but is an elective that they must take for the entire three years. Only about 50% of the students choose the EMS route of education. If a student chooses the EMS path, he/she will take Microeconomics, Macroeconomics, and Economic Pursuits. One thing I should mention here is that the FET strand is not required, but many students choose to continue their education if they are able.  The teacher to student ratio at this level is 1:35.

Curriculum in South Africa is going to be the exact same from grade level to grade level regardless of where the school is located. The government has established this requirement in order to help ensure students to learn equally. Unlike the United States where teachers have a great deal of flexibility within their curriculum.

Teachers are considered to be extremely wealthy in South Africa. Teachers are paid based on experience regardless of where they live. The average salary is $18,000-20,000 annually. In many places, the average laborer only earns $1,000 annually. It is a challenge to motivate people to become teachers and there is a shortage of teachers due to HIV-Aids. In the United States, transportation is included in public education. In South Africa, it is the parents’ responsibility to get students to school. In some areas, students will walk 20 km (about 12 miles) each way to make it to school. Because of the transportation issue only about 60% of learners complete through 12^th grade.

Essentially, the orientation consisted of educating us on South Africa—country information, educational system, and what we may encounter. Unlike the United States, South Africa is a cash country. When an individual goes shopping, it is easiest to use cash though credit cards can be used in shopping centers (yet, not always recommended due to fraud).

General Information:

• South Africa is approximately double the size of Texas

• Demographics: 80% Black, 9.3% White, 2.5% Asian, and 8.8% Colored (yes this is a correct term in terms of South Africa, it is essentially any mixed race)

• Life expectancy: 43 years (S. Africa) vs. 78 (United States)

• Median Age: 24.3 years (S. Africa) vs. 36.6 (United States)

• Infant Mortality: 59 deaths/1000 live births (S. Africa) vs. 6 deaths/1000 live births (United States)

• Unemployment Rate: 25% (S. Africa) vs. approximately 10% (Unites States)—In Qwa Qwa the unemployment rate is 50% (a city in Free State)

• GDP per capita (PPP): $10,000 (S. Africa) vs. $46,000 (United States)

• In South Africa, only 13% of the land is suitable for cultivation and droughts are very common.

• South Africa is isolated from industrial countries yet is the world’s largest producer of gold, platinum, manganese, and chrome. They are also significant producers of diamonds and coal.

• Labor Challenges: severe shortage of skilled and educated work force and difficult to build a black middle class as 80% of farmland is owned by whites

Prior to leaving, I was given two warnings. The main warning was be careful of crime. As many of you may know, pick pockets are very common as is ATM theft. If you are not familiar with ATM theft, it is when someone will have a device on an ATM machine (generally an outside machine) that will take your card information as you swipe it. There are a few more steps involved, but you get the idea. I don’t think I will need an ATM, but if I do I will go inside a bank to use it. We have also been advised not to go out alone at night. Just like anywhere, an individual needs to be careful while traveling and pay attention to the surroundings.